Phnom Penh

It is always wonderful to return from your time abroad with a skill you didn't have when you left home, and Cambodian cooking classes are one of Phnom Penh's most popular tourist attractions. Khmer cuisine distinguishes itself from Thai and Vietnamese cuisine with its delicate use of spices and aromatic herbs, used to create finely-balanced flavours that run the gamut from sweet, to salty, sour, and spicy.Favourites include the Cambodia Cooking Class operated from Frizz Restaurant in downtown Phnom Penh, which prides itself on 'small classes, maximum attention', as space is limited to 16 participants per day. During the full day lesson visitors will learn to prepare a full-course Khmer meal, as well as getting some useful tips about the blending of spices and the decorative aspects of Cambodian cuisine. Included in the price is transportation to and from the restaurant, a visit to the market to buy ingredients, and a full-colour recipe booklet, so you can try your new culinary skills on your friends and family once you return home. You also get to eat the delicious meal you produce in a beautiful riverside setting.

Address : House Number : 67 Oknha Chhun St. (240)

Website : www.frizz-restaurant.com

Telephone : +855 23 220 953

A trip to Phnom Penh would be incomplete without a visit to Central Market. Phnom Penh's most obvious landmark looks like a Star Wars trading post and its quirky architecture is part of the appeal for tourists. This famous Art Deco building consists of a huge central dome with four wings opening out into large halls. Psah Thmey contains countless stalls run by more than 3,000 merchants. When the market was first opened, in 1937, it was said to be the biggest market in Asia. It has recently undergone years of serious renovation with the newly improved Central Market reopening in 2011.Merchandise comprises almost everything imaginable including souvenirs, clothes, fresh produce, books, flowers, postcards, antiques, and a lot of jewellery. As many stalls stock the same merchandise it is useful to compare prices to find the real value of goods. One should bargain hard but good-naturedly. Surrounding the structure is a ring of tightly packed vendors selling similar wares. Its central location is walkable from almost anywhere and it is visible from many of Phnom Penh's main roads but, if necessary, all taxis know Central Market.

Address : Neayok Souk, Phnom Penh

The Cambodian genocide during the late 1970s ranks as one of the great horrors of modern history. Under Pol Pot's rule an estimated 1.7 million people (21 percent of the Cambodian population) were either ruthlessly slaughtered by the Khmer Rouge, or died of starvation in the communal fields. Choeung Ek was the extermination camp where the prisoners from S21 (now the Tuol Sleng Museum) were executed. Also known as the Killing Fields, after the movie of the same name, this football-field-sized area contains the mass graves of about 20,000 people, many of whom were tortured before being executed.A tall Memorial Stupa has been constructed to commemorate the dead with more than 8,000 human skulls are displayed behind the glass. At the entrance, a handwritten sign in Khmer and English summarises the atrocities perpetrated by the Khmer Rouge. As a reminder of the reality of this great tragedy, human bones are still frequently unearthed by heavy rains in the area, and many of the tour guides have personal stories to tell about their experiences during Pol Pot's reign. A visit to the Killing Fields is harrowing - and not suitable for young children - but it remains one of the most popular tourist attractions in Cambodia.

Address : Just over nine miles (15km) southwest of Phnom Penh

Telephone : +855 23 305 371

Opening times : Daily 8am-5.30pm

Admission : $3 entrance fee per person, $3 per audioguide.

A pleasant way to spend the evening in Phnom Penh is on the wide balcony of the Foreign Correspondent's Club. This well-located bar, restaurant, and boutique hotel sits on the banks of the riverside overlooking the converging Mekong and Tonle Sap. The spectacular view is best appreciated at sunset, which luckily coincides with the FCC's happy hour. The FCC can be more expensive than its neighbours, but the colonial-chic style and atmosphere of the place gives an invaluable French flair to the night. The FCC sits in the heart of the bustling waterfront district, close to various popular nightlife venues. The club was renovated from a colonial-era French villa and is one of Southeast Asia's most legendary watering holes, famous for being the spot where the numerous journalists covering the last days of Pol Pot's regime converged. Unlike most Foreign Correspondent's Clubs it is not private but members from other clubs do get a discount.

Address : 363 Sisowath Quay

E-mail : [email protected]

Website : www.fcccambodia.com

Telephone : +855 23 724 014

From Phnom Penh, a great excursion is the formerly lavish resort town of Krong Kep. Once a famous high-society destination, called The Pearl of the Orient, Kep is now more of a rustic fishing village; a peaceful and charming destination for those who like to travel off the beaten track. The Khmer Rouge did a number on this town, but the ruined villas of the rich now add to Kep's crumbling mystique. A beautiful coastal road, slivers of beaches, jungled mountains, and the nearby Rabbit Island ensures that Krong Kep continues to draw visitors to its shores.

The National Museum is a striking and famous example of the Khmer architectural tradition and houses the country's most important collection of ancient Cambodian cultural material and Khmer art. It is made up of four galleries containing relics, sculpture, art, and tools covering history from the prehistoric, the pre-Angkorian, the Angkorian, and the post-Angkorian periods of Cambodian culture. The pieces are arranged in chronological order and the already impressive collection continues to grow as new treasures previously hidden from the Khmer Rouge are discovered. The museum houses original relics and sculptures from the temples of Angkor, making a visit a natural accompaniment to exploring the temples.The museum was built in 1917 but has expanded over the years to include a beautiful central garden with fountains and greenery, a serene place to rest and relax after touring the exhibitions. Guided tours in English and French cost a bit extra but they are worthwhile as the printed information in the museum is minimal. Photography is not allowed inside the building. The gift shop sells books, souvenirs, and replica sculptures.

Address : Preah Ang Eng St. (13)

E-mail : [email protected]

Website : www.cambodiamuseum.info

Telephone : +855 23 217 643

Opening times : Daily 8am-5pm

Admission : $10 adults, $5 children.

Ratanakiri Province is Cambodia's version of the Wild West. Situated in the northeast of the country, along the border with Vietnam, it is slightly inaccessible. This does not deter the more intrepid travellers for whom the extra effort is worthwhile for the stunning natural beauty of the region. Visitors travelling to Ratanakiri will discover lush tropical rainforests, volcanic lakes, pristine waterfalls, and abundant wildlife including Asian elephants, monkeys, guar, and many endangered bird species. The province has slightly cooler weather than most of the country. One of the key tourist attractions is Yak Loum, a perfectly round crater lake with crystal-clear waters, surrounded by dense jungle foliage. The lake is great to swim in and a relatively short distance from the town of Banlung. Also close by is a protected area in the form of the Lomphat Wildlife Sanctuary. There are interesting villages to visit which allow for authentic cultural experiences.Be aware that the roads in this region are not great; they are very muddy during the wet season and covered in thick red dust that makes everyone appear orange in the dry season. Boats are a popular mode of transport for scenic trips. As a destination for the eco-tourist or adventure seeker Ratanakiri is a paradise.

The Irrawaddy river dolphins inhabit a 118-mile (190km) stretch of the Mekong River. These odd but delightful creatures are in danger of extinction and the Cambodian population was recently estimated to consist of a mere 85 animals. For years the dolphins were killed illegal fishing practices, and hunted by the Khmer Rouge for sport. The dolphins are now protected and have become a symbol of hope for the sleepy north-eastern town of Kratie and the money paid to view them supports the local community as well as the conservation of the dolphins.The animals themselves are shy and intelligent and their perpetual grins make them very endearing. They are sometimes spotted from the riverbank but many tourists opt to rent small boats to get closer to them. The local oarsmen retain a healthy distance from surfacing animals but viewers can get close enough to recognise individual characteristics and see the famous dolphin smiles. Kratie is accustomed to budget travellers, with a choice of cheap guesthouses and small hotels. All of these offer motorbike drivers for the scenic nine-mile (15km) drive to the dolphins' river home, a tiny fishing village called Kampi where the houses are raised up on stilts to prevent annual flooding.

Address : Kratie, about five or six hours from Phnom Penh

Not to be confused with the Central Market (Psah Thmay), the Russian Market (Psar Toul Tom Poung) is located south of Mao Tse Tuong Boulevard, and offers tourists a great range of bargains. The market is home to an impressive array of silk scarves, silk hammock, and motorbike parts. Apart from these treasures, it is easy to find curios, souvenirs, jewellery, and almost anything else that may take your fancy. There are some very good tailors who can fit you for custom-made suits and shirts for very reasonable prices, although you will have to wait about three days to collect them. There is also wonderful local food on offer and the fish soup is particularly appetizing.Like all sizeable markets in Cambodia it can get very crowded and a little overwhelming so it's best to go early or later in the evening. The market is undercover so it is ideal to miss the midday heat which makes it almost unbearably hot inside. If you get tired or need a break head to one of the nearby cafés lining the market for a delicious fruit cocktail. The market got its name from the plentiful Russian tourists who shopped there when visiting Cambodia just after the fall of the Khmer Rouge, and it remains the city's most popular market for tourists.

Address : Corner of Street 163 and Street 444, Phnom Penh

Amuse your inner warrior with one of Phnom Penh's best carnal pleasures: shooting big guns. Whatever one's taste, be it automatic rifles, rocket launchers, or grenades, they are on offer. The city is known for availability of weapon that are probably deemed unsuitable at home. There are about four well-known shooting ranges in Phnom Penh that are generally run by the military. While there are safety measures in place, it is a remarkably casual and free environment. This comes at a cost, at more than a dollar a bullet, ensuring that Rambo instincts are kept in check.Upon arrival you should be able to see all the weapons on display and read a 'menu' detailing what is available and how much handling each weapon costs. Guides generally recommend that you visit the shooting range first if you plan to also see sites like the Killing Fields, as experiencing Cambodia's violent past has been known to dampen the excitement and fun to be had at the range. Most guesthouses and taxi drivers can recommend a good shooting range, but it is best to check online reviews to ensure you are going to a respected establishment. The Cambodia Extreme Outdoor Shooting Range is a favourite with travellers and has been awarded certificates of excellence by review sites like TripAdvisor in recent years.

While this beach town isn't nearly as famous as those found along Thailand's pristine coast, it does make a great tourist getaway. Sihanoukville is the country's only deep water port, making much of the town industrial and unattractive to tourists. But the coastal city is surrounded on three sides by the Bay of Thailand and there are several secluded tourist beaches with all the requisite trappings: dishevelled beach bars, guesthouses, and smiling hawkers. As there isn't much to do in town, it is worth the extra money to stay in the quaint beachside accommodation.Daytime activities include swimming, fishing, snorkelling, scuba diving, and boat trips to the nearby islands. There are also several Buddhist temples to be explored in the area and the Ream National Park is only 11 miles (18km) away. Most hotels and guest houses offer transport and day passes for visiting the National Park. Nightly beach barbecues prepare great food and offer cheap beer. The government is said to have plans to develop the area for larger resorts which may well ruin its laid-back beach charm in years to come. Regular daily buses provide a three to four hour journey to and from Phnom Penh, along Cambodia's best road. There is also a ferry connecting to Koh Kong, the Cambodian/Thailand border.

Address : 115 miles (185km) southwest of Phnom Penh

The Royal Palace is one of the principal attractions of Phnom Penh and contains the best examples of 20th-century Khmer architecture in the city. The palace has remained the official residence of the kings of Cambodia since 1860. Set among the perfectly maintained gardens you can find the exquisite Throne Hall, the Elephant Pavilion where the king's elephants were kept, the Royal Treasury, and the Chan Chaya Pavilion which was made especially for performances of classical Cambodian dance.Although much of the palace complex is off-limits to the public, the Silver Pagoda is open to visitors. This remarkable building is the highlight of the compound and takes its name from the floor of the temple, which is completely covered in silver tiles. The internal walls are decorated with frescoes depicting episodes of the Ramayana myth, painted in 1903 by 40 Khmer artists. It is also called the Pagoda of the Emerald Buddha, a tribute to the magnificent baccarat crystal image of the Emerald Buddha that sits in the centre on a gilt pedestal. There are other intricately carved Buddha images on display, notably the life-size solid gold statue that stands in front of the pedestal, decorated with 9,584 diamonds.Remember to dress conservatively and respectfully when visiting the Royal Palace; bare shoulders or legs are frowned upon within the complex.

Address : 63, Street 348, Sangkat Toul Svay Prey II, Khan Chamkamorn, Phnom Penh

Opening times : Daily 8am-10.30am, 2pm-5pm.

Admission : $10 per person.

When the Khmer Rouge came into power in 1975, they commandeered and converted a secondary school into a primitive prison where they detained and tortured anyone suspected of anti-revolutionary behaviour. Between 1975 and 1979, an estimated 20,000 victims were imprisoned in Security Prison 21, or S21, as it was known. The building appears almost exactly as the fleeing Khmer Rouge left it, and serves as a testimony to the crimes and atrocities of the organisation.It is a tremendously moving experience. The photographs, instruments of torture, and bloodstained walls give a thorough idea of the extent of the pain and horror borne by the Cambodian people. Thousands of victims were transported from here to the extermination camp outside the city, Choeung Ek (The Killing Fields), to be killed. There are some first person accounts on display at the museum, despite the fact that of the estimated 20,000 prisoners incarcerated in S21 there are only 12 known survivors.

Address : Corner of Street 113 and Street 350, Boeng Keng Kang

E-mail : [email protected]

Website : tuolsleng.gov.kh

Telephone : 023 6655 395

Opening times : Daily from 8am-5pm.

Admission : $3 per person.